See my Facebook Page for LED Info
Clsuter and HVAC Pictures on Gallery page

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June 2016- Nice video compliation done by Justus Steckman highlighting my car and the phenominol run my QS did over Memorial Weekend 2016. 10.51@133mph.

YouTube Video

 

97SupraTurbo-HOME page is based on chronological order dating back to Early 2000's. Scrolling down will go thru the years of my endeavor’s into the OEM turbo's. Some of the below is just brief description and time tables on certain mods I have done over the years.

At the very bottom are technical specifications and pictures on CT12 OEM turbo's plus 2JZ Head flow charts.

June 2015. I am about ready to roll out my new 1998 QS HT. It has been about 9 months since I purchase it. It has been a full frame-off restoration. It left the factory in 1998 as a Auto-NA, because Toyota never made ANY HTs other than NA-Auto. Mine has be converted to a true authentic Twin Turbo car. Not one feature has been overlooked. (as there are MANY differences with a NA/TT).

It will have electric folding mirrors, heated seats, back up camera, navigation rear view mirror with compass and temp. I also installed a fair amount of sound deadoning. New fuel system hose routings. Everyting converted from fuel tank to engine in SS hardlines.

Pictures to follow, or go to the build thread: 1998 QS Buld Thread

Collage of Picture HERE..

October 2014 . I am experimenting (for fun) making the new OEM tubular manifold in a 3D modeler machine. It is a new piece of machinery for a Boeing project where they needed a "test". So a buddy of mine is making the manifold for free. I cannot grasp making a SS metal manifold this way. Can't wait!

January 2013. Finally buttoned all of the tuning and now am 100% flex fuel. Completed the full 4D fuel mapping thanks ALL to Ernie for all his tuning skills. His is a Maestro. Did pretty good HP wise with a extremely safe tune. I say safe, because I was 92 octane, but at E17. I would guess local pumps to be about E10, so I was a bit above the pumps for this time of year. DYNO HERE I like that at 2500rpms I have more WTQ that a stock Supra. Although I need to get to 4200rpms to match the stock Supra HP. Now to someday figure away to eliminate that transition dip.

New 2012 GT28 Ported Volutes: This makes a big difference doing this as the process for boring out for larger wheels leaves a "ledge". The airflow hits this "wall" and gets thrown back. Buy smoothing and tapering the machine cut edge allows for a quicker spooling.

OEM Volute
Ported Volute
Ported Volute-2

July 2012 - Got around to do more dyno work to fine tune. Still need to tune between 31-36psi as we didnt know we had a 3-bar MAP sensor (Reads only to 31.2psi) Plus we need to do one more final on 92octane now that the knock tables are working. Hoping for the ability to run 22psi with 92 octane.
Then are map will be full flex and change based on percent of ethenol.

DYNO GRAPH- Our goal is 700whp by end of August

March 2012- Texas 2012 Meet Dyno-New Record 623 whp 31psi on E90.
DYNO GRAPH
YouTube Video

October 2011-Specs Page updated after Summer re-build to E85 and ViPec Engine Management

August 2010- New developments on the operational designs of the GT28's. We will revamp the EBV actuator to allow for higher "pre-transition" boost. The stock actuator is not able to handle the increased boost that these turbo's develop, Our goal is to have about 1Bar actuators (14.7psi). This will allow the boost to rise to 14.7psi during the pre-spool area between 3200-3800rpms. This can replace the need for an electric or manual boost controller.

We have also noticed that with these larger turbo's, the transition point needs to be changed. I have designed a new circuit that will allow users to lower or raise the RPM level at which the transition starts to operate. We are thinking this to be in the area of 4200 to 4500 rpms. This will allow the 2nd bank to raise its boost output equal to the 1st bank output (now at 14.7psi) So instead of 3800 rpms and seeing a significant boost drop, moving to 4400 rpms should eliminate the boost drop. More seamless.

Here are a multitude of boost by RPM data I collected in the last month. Most all were under 5000rpms since all I was logging was the transition. I tested 1) Stock EBV system, 2) Manual Boost controller in the EBV system, 3) My new electronic boost controller in the EBV system. My results were a modified EBV actuator operating in stock fashion, produced the least boost drop. Although I was only testing a 12 psi actuator, and not a 14.7psi actuator.

PDF of graphs
PDF Dyno comparisons
Data Log of Sequential transition. --Numerical graphing of a dyno sessions

(See Mods page for more specifications on the GT28 turbo kits)

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January 2010- New articles being uploaded soon. "How-To's" on LED Climate control conversions using my pre-manufactured LED circuit boards. Complete GT28 installation with pictures and diagrams. New heater hose modification, newly modified OEM fuel rail with 650cc side feed injectors.

March 2009-New Electronic Boost circuit. This new small electronic circuit will run on any 0-5v MAP sensor, or any other 0-5V sensor. You can turn-on, or turn-off, any engine component based off boost pressure, coolant temperature, etc. It reads off the stock (If there) TPS signal. You adjust the knob to the desired level you want to turn on or off a stand alone component. Currently using it to turn on and off a 2v source to the stock VSV. It opens and closes the VSV to control the rear turbo boost prior to full transition. Stock is normally 10psi, but with this circuit, you can control the boost to as high as 16psi. Having this additional boost from 2500-4000rpms makes a huge torque gain for cruising around.

February 2009 -- Price reductions for all turbo upgrade kits. USDM Upgrades, JDM Upgrades, and the GT28 upgrades. Email myself or Jeremy at Speedforsale.

NEW-! Oct 15, 2008. Was delighted to see that Forza Motor Sports wrote an article on my car. Both Marshall and myself had our cars sound recorded for the Forza2 simulator game. Marshall got an article written in 2006, so I guess it was my turn. (Link has been removed temporarily) Will hopefully get it back soon. Here is another link for my Supra being the Top 25 of 2008. Car # 16..Here

NEW~! May 30, 2008 GT28 Custom Twin Turbo's are done and For Sale--See--"MODS" page.

New~! March 2008
GT28R-CT12 Conversions-(see Mods) Test fitting is complete and the kits are finished. Jeremy Blackwell from Speedforsale should finish installations and have dynos by April. At which time they will go up for sale.

NEW~! Oil Cooler-July 2007 (see Mods)

January 2007--Testing my new Electronic Boost Controller to take place of the manual boost controller to gain more boost stability. It wanders too much and doesn't stay at a specific level.

April 2007---Latest LOG with my new Innovate Logworks showing how my new AEM #1 Turbo Boost controller. It works very well, and I don't need to go under my hood to make changes to the boost levels. It's all done right at the gauge in my pillar. I have it set at 1 Bar, and it is pretty close.NEW~! ovember, 2006--Complete FSM for 1997-98 50MB's (see "Tech" Page)

Edited 9/27/05 First track day with the new Race-Logic Traction System. See "Tech" for pics and description. **See Tech for new "Trouble Codes" Diagnostics

Oct 28th 2005 --New Radio install using OEM Amp for SW. Upgraded speakers. See Mods for details

December 2005--New SBC-MMDI Color Boost controller Display

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NEW PERFORMANCE SPECS FOR THE GT28s

2015 Dyno after 10:1 Engine Build

2014 Hub Centric Dyno-811TQ!

2012 Pac NW Dyno---

2012 Pac NW Drag Testing--

---Drag Video 11.67--(See new GT28 Drag Video below)

--Drag Video 11.8 @ 127MPH--Canada meet GT28's (2.037 60')

--Drag Video Supra (mis-shift) against my GTR-- (HD-Stereo)

--Supra Dyno at Canada meet-- 7-2010 (HD MP4 76MB) 572HP


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NEW MODIFIED TURBO'S HAVE BEEN INSTALLED 5/06

REVISED DYNO RUNS MAY 28TH WITH REPAIRED SEQUENTIAL SYSTEM!

4TH GEAR PULL GRAPH "Blue is the newer run" "SAE Uncorrected"
5TH GEAR PULL GRAPH "Red is the newer run" "SAE Uncorrected"
4TH GEAR PULL GRAPH "Blue is the newer run" "SAE Corrected"
5TH GEAR PULL GRAPH "Blue is the newer run" "SAE Corrected"

**THANKS TO INTEC RACING FOR ALL OF THERE HELP ON THE DYNO!**
www.intecracing.com

Dyno Comparison chart of 4 different Dyno runs

NEW Sept 2006 Dyno log in PDF and Graph. 4th Gear 19.x PSI. Note how the PSI ramps up to my #1 turbo boost setting, holds, then drops as pre-spool starts. Also note where it starts to shoot upwards right around the 3800rpm actuators opening. This is important to see for people who *worry* that there boost drops off. Quite normal as the boost pressure now needs to share with the #2 turbo.

532HP Log chart
532HP Graph

After years of research I have finally found a source for modified CT12b USDM turbo's. This source is nother Supra member who has 2 Supra's and is an engineer back East. The modification is minor in the overall scheme of things. All we did is add a larger T3-60 Trim Compressor wheel. The Turbine and OEM shaft are all still USDM specs. (not the larger JDM spec) This larger Compressor wheel is about 7.5 mm larger with an additional 2 blades (12).. In essence it is now a T3-60 Trim. After I "Beta" test these, we may make a few more. Our goal is to eventually test out a set that will have the larger JDM turbine. This is a greater challenge due to the different housing set up in the JDM versions.

The installation didn't take as long as I expected. Myself and another Supra owner friend (toyotafan) started at around 11:00am and was test driving it at 9:00pm. Although, the night before, I took out the radiator and all of the turbo piping to get a head start. We actually just removed the turbo's from the exhaust housings. We weren't sure how it was going to go just taking the turbo's off only. We did have to ake off the EBV bypass tube, but not the DP off. The biggest struggle was getting the #2 turbo oil and water lines off. The way the bolts are aligned, it is difficult to get a lock on the nuts. We think we can shave off at least an hour if we do it again. We also took real caution on installing new gaskets on real cleaned up surfaces. The "delicate" issue was actually tapping off the compressor housings off the exhaust housings. A little PB blaster and constant tapping and they finally broke loose. From there, we were home free. No leaks wanted, so we wanted to do it right the first time. It paid off, not a single drop of any fluids after the test run.

The overall efficiency is greater by about 20%. These new turbos will run at a much lower compressor rpm. There maximum efficiency range will be 22psi. When they are running at 24psi, then they will be close to an OEM CT12b running at 18psi. There is definitely a small lag over stock. Not too noticeable,maybe 100 rpms. They also continue to rise in HP at redline. You could definitely take advantage of this by raising the rev limit, or tune your cams to monopolies on this.

You can "beat" on them as I did at the dyno. I actually hit 27psi on one 5th gear pull. Anything above 22psi I saw about a 2psi drop at redline. Any boost levels 22psi or below, it held boost to redline. I also had to install an adjustable spring on the wastegate to be able to go to higher boost levels. Basically this is a spring on the wastegate actuator arm that I rigged a bolt and wing nut so I could add, or delete, tension. All this did was extend the range of boost. I have mine set where 17-18psi is my least boost, and 24psi is my max boost.

In regards to the dyno shots below, I had one problem that I didn't notice until we were all done. When I went back to install the turbo's I forgot to re-adjust the #1 turbo controller. So all of the sequential runs ook goofy because I was stuck at 10psi until 3800rpm transition. I will eventually go back and re-dyno so I can see the higher HP/Torque lower down. So basically, with the small additional lag, and no raised boost, it almost looks like I am loosing HP down low. You can actually see the "pulsating" of the EBV trying to "hold" the boost to around 10psi. In my new set-up, I feel that having it set at 16psi is optimal, and safer on the #2 turbo. But for now, it looks like severe lag. This is not present now because I have re-adjusted it, but won't be seen until I re-dyno.

The basic "gain" in HP and Torque is from 4800 to 6800+rpm range..My estimate gain is around 40HP for whatever set-up your car has. The best HP I previously had was 493HP 537TQ (with Electric fans). My best now is about 530HP and 560TQ SAE. So assuming W/O electric fans I would have been at 490HP I have gained 40HP. I did a 3rd gear pull in the beginning to tune for fuel, and that run was 03HP and 472TQ at 22psi. This 530HP run I actually hit about 25psi. So consideration needs to be taken at this boost level. My estimate for "street" use at around 20psi would be 470ishHP. I have NO worries running these between 18-20psi on pump gas since they will be running at 123,000rpm compressor speed. On a stock CT12b running at 123,000rpm compressor speed I would be at about 16psi. We all know how Density Ratio and "heat" above this level isn't efficient.

The following are the dyno charts. Some were done in 3rd gear, then 4th and 5th.(not all shown here) The Sequential ones aren't right and will have to be re-dynoed later. I need to redo them at the higher 16psi #1 turbo set, as opposed to the 10psi I was at."See above for the latest corrected dyno sheets"

4th Gear at 22psi
Highest run in 5th (Overlay Seq and TTC) although you wouldn't know it~!
Overlay last year to now

Overlay Dyno----This one dyno composite graph shows my car prior to any Head work and Cams. It is also before I installed my #1 MBC. It is a good comparison for anyone that is BPU+++, and still in sequential. Although these 2 runs don't really show a good spool up under 3500rpms. This is from having OEM #1 boost at 10psi then jumping to like 20-22psi. Another reason why I feel the #1 turbo MBC is a good mod.

I wasn't pleased with the results overlaid from my last year's 493hp run. The only thing different then and now (other than the turbo's) was I removed my AAP Electric fans. Not thinking this matters, but maybe a couple of HP maybe. I REALLY need to go back and re-dyno with my raised #1 turbo boost. The area nder the curve looks terrible compared to last year's dyno. The good news is the way these new turbo's continue to climb in HP, not dropping off at all. Once I fix the low end a little, I think the curve will come back and show higher levels across the board. I will also try to dyno at lower boost to try to simulate more "stock" form. My particular car has many modifications in the "Flow" end of things, so that may be harder to compare to people with cat-back exhausts and no extra engine work. You would definitely see higher trap speeds due to climbing HP at redline, and the ability to hold a higher boost. Maybe 3mph+ I would guess. The "GOOD" news is there is a 10% gain in HP and Torque. Even better is that when you open the hood, it will look STOCK~!

Many thanks to "toyotafan" my best friend for helping me through all of this with his time and efforts. (he is next in line for these upgrades).

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BASIC TURBO SPECIFICATIONS Modified/un-Modified

 

New Assembly's Ceramic Coated OEM CT12b
Upgraded Turbo2
Upgraded Turbo1
Side by Side OEM/Hybrid
Housings
Assembled
Specifications
Compressor Wheels
Compressor Map for a OEM CT12b
Compressor Map of the new T3-60
Compressor Map for the GT28's
2JZ Flow Chart OEM
2JZ Flow Chart my car (Stage 1 head, 264 cams, All turbo components ported-1 Turbo)
2JZ Flow Chart my car (Both turbo's--for comparing to OEM)
A/F Curve + Boost curve
Wastegate Spring -Adjustable
Wastegate Spring- Installed
Custom Ported Exhaust Bypass Tube-Helps decease transition boost drop