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January 2010

New articles being uploaded soon. “How-To’s” on LED Climate control conversions using my pre-manufactured LED circuit boards. Complete GT28 installation with pictures and diagrams. New heater hose modification, newly modified OEM fuel rail with 650cc side feed injectors.

March 2009

New Electronic Boost circuit. This new small electronic circuit will run on any 0-5v MAP sensor, or any other 0-5V sensor. You can turn-on, or turn-off, any engine component based off boost pressure, coolant temperature, etc. It reads off the stock (If there) TPS signal. You adjust the knob to the desired level you want to turn on or off a stand alone component. Currently using it to turn on and off a 2v source to the stock VSV. It opens and closes the VSV to control the rear turbo boost prior to full transition. Stock is normally 10psi, but with this circuit, you can control the boost to as high as 16psi. Having this additional boost from 2500-4000rpms makes a huge torque gain for cruising around.

February 2009

Price reductions for all turbo upgrade kits. USDM Upgrades, JDM Upgrades, and the GT28 upgrades. Email myself or Jeremy at Speedforsale.

NEW-! Oct 15, 2008

Was delighted to see that Forza Motor Sports wrote an article on my car. Both Marshall and myself had our cars sound recorded for the Forza2 simulator game. Marshall got an article written in 2006, so I guess it was my turn. (Link has been removed temporarily) Will hopefully get it back soon. Here is another link for my Supra being the Top 25 of 2008. Car # 16..Here

NEW~! May 30, 2008

GT28 Custom Twin Turbo’s are done and For Sale–See–“MODS” page.

New~! March 2008

GT28R-CT12 Conversions-(see Mods) Test fitting is complete and the kits are finished. Jeremy Blackwell from Speedforsale should finish installations and have dynos by April. At which time they will go up for sale.

NEW~! Oil Cooler-July 2007

(see Mods)

January 2007

Testing my new Electronic Boost Controller to take place of the manual boost controller to gain more boost stability. It wanders too much and doesn’t stay at a specific level.

April 2007

Latest LOG with my new Innovate Logworks showing how my new AEM #1 Turbo Boost controller. It works very well, and I don’t need to go under my hood to make changes to the boost levels. It’s all done right at the gauge in my pillar. I have it set at 1 Bar, and it is pretty close.NEW~! ovember, 2006–Complete FSM for 1997-98 50MB’s (see “Tech” Page)

Edited 9/27/05

First track day with the new Race-Logic Traction System. See “Tech” for pics and description. **See Tech for new “Trouble Codes” Diagnostics

Oct 28th 2005

New Radio install using OEM Amp for SW. Upgraded speakers. See Mods for details

December 2005

New SBC-MMDI Color Boost controller Display



Dyno Comparison chart of 4 different Dyno runs

NEW Sept 2006 Dyno log in PDF and Graph. 4th Gear 19.x PSI.

Note how the PSI ramps up to my #1 turbo boost setting, holds, then drops as pre-spool starts. Also note where it starts to shoot upwards right around the 3800rpm actuators opening. This is important to see for people who *worry* that there boost drops off. Quite normal as the boost pressure now needs to share with the #2 turbo.

532HP Log chart 532HP Graph

After years of research I have finally found a source for modified CT12b USDM turbo’s. This source is nother Supra member who has 2 Supra’s and is an engineer back East. The modification is minor in the overall scheme of things. All we did is add a larger T3-60 Trim Compressor wheel. The Turbine and OEM shaft are all still USDM specs. (not the larger JDM spec) This larger Compressor wheel is about 7.5 mm larger with an additional 2 blades (12).. In essence it is now a T3-60 Trim. After I “Beta” test these, we may make a few more. Our goal is to eventually test out a set that will have the larger JDM turbine. This is a greater challenge due to the different housing set up in the JDM versions.

The installation didn’t take as long as I expected. Myself and another Supra owner friend (toyotafan) started at around 11:00am and was test driving it at 9:00pm. Although, the night before, I took out the radiator and all of the turbo piping to get a head start. We actually just removed the turbo’s from the exhaust housings. We weren’t sure how it was going to go just taking the turbo’s off only. We did have to ake off the EBV bypass tube, but not the DP off. The biggest struggle was getting the #2 turbo oil and water lines off. The way the bolts are aligned, it is difficult to get a lock on the nuts. We think we can shave off at least an hour if we do it again. We also took real caution on installing new gaskets on real cleaned up surfaces. The “delicate” issue was actually tapping off the compressor housings off the exhaust housings. A little PB blaster and constant tapping and they finally broke loose. From there, we were home free. No leaks wanted, so we wanted to do it right the first time. It paid off, not a single drop of any fluids after the test run.

The overall efficiency is greater by about 20%. These new turbos will run at a much lower compressor rpm. There maximum efficiency range will be 22psi. When they are running at 24psi, then they will be close to an OEM CT12b running at 18psi. There is definitely a small lag over stock. Not too noticeable,maybe 100 rpms. They also continue to rise in HP at redline. You could definitely take advantage of this by raising the rev limit, or tune your cams to monopolies on this.

You can “beat” on them as I did at the dyno. I actually hit 27psi on one 5th gear pull. Anything above 22psi I saw about a 2psi drop at redline. Any boost levels 22psi or below, it held boost to redline. I also had to install an adjustable spring on the wastegate to be able to go to higher boost levels. Basically this is a spring on the wastegate actuator arm that I rigged a bolt and wing nut so I could add, or delete, tension. All this did was extend the range of boost. I have mine set where 17-18psi is my least boost, and 24psi is my max boost.

In regards to the dyno shots below, I had one problem that I didn’t notice until we were all done. When I went back to install the turbo’s I forgot to re-adjust the #1 turbo controller. So all of the sequential runs ook goofy because I was stuck at 10psi until 3800rpm transition. I will eventually go back and re-dyno so I can see the higher HP/Torque lower down. So basically, with the small additional lag, and no raised boost, it almost looks like I am loosing HP down low. You can actually see the “pulsating” of the EBV trying to “hold” the boost to around 10psi. In my new set-up, I feel that having it set at 16psi is optimal, and safer on the #2 turbo. But for now, it looks like severe lag. This is not present now because I have re-adjusted it, but won’t be seen until I re-dyno.

The basic “gain” in HP and Torque is from 4800 to 6800+rpm range..My estimate gain is around 40HP for whatever set-up your car has. The best HP I previously had was 493HP 537TQ (with Electric fans). My best now is about 530HP and 560TQ SAE. So assuming W/O electric fans I would have been at 490HP I have gained 40HP. I did a 3rd gear pull in the beginning to tune for fuel, and that run was 03HP and 472TQ at 22psi. This 530HP run I actually hit about 25psi. So consideration needs to be taken at this boost level. My estimate for “street” use at around 20psi would be 470ishHP. I have NO worries running these between 18-20psi on pump gas since they will be running at 123,000rpm compressor speed. On a stock CT12b running at 123,000rpm compressor speed I would be at about 16psi. We all know how Density Ratio and “heat” above this level isn’t efficient.

The following are the dyno charts. Some were done in 3rd gear, then 4th and 5th.(not all shown here) The Sequential ones aren’t right and will have to be re-dynoed later. I need to redo them at the higher 16psi #1 turbo set, as opposed to the 10psi I was at.”See above for the latest corrected dyno sheets”

4th Gear at 22psi

Highest run in 5th (Overlay Seq and TTC) although you wouldn’t know it~!

Overlay last year to now

Overlay Dyno—-This one dyno composite graph shows my car prior to any Head work and Cams. It is also before I installed my #1 MBC. It is a good comparison for anyone that is BPU+++, and still in sequential. Although these 2 runs don’t really show a good spool up under 3500rpms. This is from having OEM #1 boost at 10psi then jumping to like 20-22psi. Another reason why I feel the #1 turbo MBC is a good mod.

I wasn’t pleased with the results overlaid from my last year’s 493hp run. The only thing different then and now (other than the turbo’s) was I removed my AAP Electric fans. Not thinking this matters, but maybe a couple of HP maybe. I REALLY need to go back and re-dyno with my raised #1 turbo boost. The area nder the curve looks terrible compared to last year’s dyno. The good news is the way these new turbo’s continue to climb in HP, not dropping off at all. Once I fix the low end a little, I think the curve will come back and show higher levels across the board. I will also try to dyno at lower boost to try to simulate more “stock” form. My particular car has many modifications in the “Flow” end of things, so that may be harder to compare to people with cat-back exhausts and no extra engine work. You would definitely see higher trap speeds due to climbing HP at redline, and the ability to hold a higher boost. Maybe 3mph+ I would guess. The “GOOD” news is there is a 10% gain in HP and Torque. Even better is that when you open the hood, it will look STOCK~!

Many thanks to “toyotafan” my best friend for helping me through all of this with his time and efforts. (he is next in line for these upgrades).


2JZ Flow Chart OEM

2JZ Flow Chart my car (Stage 1 head, 264 cams, All turbo components ported-1 Turbo)

(Both turbo’s–for comparing to OEM)